The Cuillin Ridge – Skye, Scotland

The Cuillin Ridge – Skye, Scotland.


*Looking north along the ridge in clear weather – Day 1*	*Predawn Start*

This article will describe our traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on Skye. It can be used as a guide to assist you and give an idea of the terrain and what is required. Whether you do it in the summer or the winter, it is a fantastic outing that will be remembered for a good time into the future. Due to the nature of the route, its location, varying conditions and the time that you take the challenge, your experience will vary. However take what you can from our experiences and use them to help in your planning.

Summary

We did the route in winter conditions at the start of December. It took us a full 2 days and we bivvied on the ridge. There is a fair amount of technical climbing and be prepared to melt snow and climb in the dark. If you have the guide book, the most complex navigation is finding the start. Micro navigation is key on the ridge and you in only a handful of places is it possible to take wrong options.

We drove from Sheffield and it is about 600 miles, one way. We left on Friday afternoon at 15.00 and it took us about 8 hours. The roads are all good and fast and we went up the M6 to Glasgow and through Fort William.

On arrival at Glenbrittle we parked as far towards the beach as we could and sleep in the car. This car park (412205) is the start of the walk-in so we were ready for

An important piece of planning is where to leave the car for your return. The ridge does not finish where it starts so getting back to your car is vital. A lot of people descend to the Sligachan Hotel. This is about 40 kms back to the car and unless you get a lift or taxi, you might end up walking. Be aware that the hotel seems shut on Sunday evenings in the winter – just the time when you get down off the ridge.

An alternative is to leave the car at Glenbrittle and retrace your steps to Bruache Na Frithe. The north westerly descent is easy and follows a large path along a rocky ridge before crossing a stream and turning westerly towards the track to Glenbrittle. When you reach the road at 425259 it is about 5km back to the car park.

The approach.


*Looking down on Bealach a Garbh-Choire*	*Looking south along the ridge as we backtracked to the start*

We walked in from the Glenbrittle Beach car park (free parking).

We left at 05.00 and followed the large path east and skirted around Sron Na Ciche. The first 1 1/2 hours are flat and easy to navigate. We did the route at the start of December and it was dark until about 08.00. When you reach a large stream (445193), simply head up a roughish path following the streams. We could nt find it but just headed upwards. About half way up there is a fair amount of rock and we kept to the left side. On reaching the tarn or Bealach a Garbh-Choire continue straight around, keeping to the left and follow a steep scree slope up to the ridge proper.


*Easy navigation along the ridge*	*Technical climbing in a freezing crack*

Day 1

We reached the ridge and dumped the sacks. If you want to tick all the peaks and do it from the proper start, you have to head towards Gars-bheinn. It looks a long way but only takes about 2 ½ hours without a rucksack. Navigation is easy no need for technical gear apart from crampons and a single axe, if conditions demand. Take advantage of climbing without rucksack and ropes and enjoy this section.


*Skirting the snow near Inacessible Pinnacle*	*Technical route finding even on a clear day*

The times on the pictures indicate when we reached the locations on the ridge. Don’t underestimate the length of the ridge, particularly in good weather when you can see a long way but don’t seem to be moving quickly on the map. In winter 3 days would be more comfortable unless you are prepared to climb a lot in the dark and finish late.

We bivvied less than half way along at an obvious bivvy site and were glad that we did.


*Skirting the snow near Inacessible Pinnacle as the light fades*	*30 mins later at the bivi site - 16.00 and it was dark!*

Continuing the next morning we struggled to find sites that would have been as accommodating as a bivi.

Day 2

The going on the 2^nd day was just as technical and sheer as the 1^st day and we started in a bit of cloud. The distance required to cover was much further.


*Starting day 2 in cloud*	*Abseiling and more technicalities*

There is still an awful lot of messing about with abseils and some technical pitches that need to be lead. Overall there is a lot of distance to cover.

	*Lots of down climbing on the 2^nd day*
	*Yet more technicalities- doing this unroped allowed us to move much faster.*

Various locations along the Cuillin Ridge

	*Even bare looking rock was very icy and grampons were essential.* *Abseiling around SgurrAlasdair.*
	*Technical snow traverse on day 1 near Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.*
	*Watch your step or you might end up looking like Dracula.*
	*Easy snow slopes on day 1 leading back to the start of the ridge.*
	*Fantastic views looking out to sea.*
	*Looking out to sea.*
	*Looking inland over Loch Coruisk.*
	*The rising traverse of Collies’ Ledge can be seen across the face, bottom right upwards to the left.* *It is a lot easier than it looks and does not require a rope.*
	*Another traverse in the distance leading up the snow to the Inaccessible Pinnacle.*