A typical tour of the crag might go like this.
-The
morning will start with a 5Omin walk to the shaded overhanging
roofs of the cascade. As it faces west, you will find most climbers
will be here until mid day. After warming up good routes to try
are Medicine Douce 6c+ and Ananda 7a, which are both classics
of their grade. Moving down the crag, the climbs become progressively
harder, Super Mickey at 7b is a 30-meter route, which pulls on
some of the biggest pockets imaginable (Beware of the sting in
the tail). Just to the left is the impressive Privilege du serpent
7c+. Others to try include Rosanna 8a, Mirage 7c+ and Vagabond
7c.


After
midday the sun comes around so its time to move on.
-From the cascade sector head up hill to sector Thorgal, here
you will find Rumble Gish 6b, Pony Boy 6c and Colombine Panachee
6b+. Colombine Panachee has a tricky start followed by technical
slab and face climbing which snakes it way up the most impressive
piece of the wall, at the last bolt you have to make a technical
rock over move in order to get the jug and clip the chains. Other
good routes to the right are L'epee soleil 6a and Pulp friction
6b.
Following
the track that traverses the foot of the crag, you pass the incredibly
steep and impressive Race de Rat sector. There are only a few
lines on this sector the easiest being Face de Rat 8a+. This 35meter
route takes an impressive blue streak up the right hand side of
the wall.
Around
the corner from here is the Berlin sector and in my opinion, the
best sector at Ceuse! Hardly anywhere else in the world will you
find such sustained routes at grades from 6b to 8b.
Good routes to do.
Well basically every route on the whole sector, however if you
want the best of the best then here they are. Zagreb 6c, which
starts out thin and technical on the lower section, followed by
the famous flake move (undercut left hand crossing over to a right
hand undercut). From here get your breath back and then make long
pulls from big pocket to big pocket up a slightly overhanging
wall. About 15m to the left is Petit illusion 7a+, the route starts
out by climbing a tufa and then blasts straight up a heavily pocketed
face via two finger pockets and crimps, make sure you get the
sequence right at the top!