
By Gary Phillips.
Lying
70km north of Lleida in one of Spains oldest climbing areas, the
Terradets Valley a new single pitch sport climbing sector has
been developed.
Sector
Bruixes is relatively small but compact crag with routes ranging
from 6c and 8c and with more than half of these being above 7c.
The style of climbing tends to be big pulls on good holds with
90% of these moves on tufas and pockets.
The
best warm up routes are found down the left hand side of the crag,
these being l'Ansia 7a+ and Pasta sin Aqua 7a+. Both are brilliant
and show the quality and style of the routes to come.
After these step right and get on Jam Session 7b and Derribos
Arias 7b+.
Derribos Arias is the best 7b+ there. After a powerful and pumpy
start prepare your self for a tricky sequence on crimpy holds
at mid height, if you read the sequence right and manage to pull
through then head for the twin tufas and the victory jugs.
Other good ones to throw your self at down the left hand side
of the crag Tarambana 7b+/c, Una bonita session de mete y saca
7c/7c+ and Primera Linea 8a. The later is a megga classic and
good one to try and onsight if you are fit!
Moving
up hill and taking the best of the bunch get on the 35m Orient
7c+, Occident 7c, Xarop de basto 7c+ and the powerful Red Bulls
7c+. Red Bulls takes the crazy looking single tufa with wild and
exciting moves from start to finish.
At
the extremeright end of the crag is the home to the hardest routes
at Bruixes. If you are up to it check out Anarquista 8a+ again
the route provides powerful athletic climbing up the right hand
side of the cave. The crux is getting past the 4th bolt where
you slap from a L.H. pinch into a R.H. undercut and then on again
to a another L.H. pinch, from here get a rest in the tufas and
then blast up the tiring head wall on good, but spaced holds.
Finally
if you have time then Definicion d'Accion 8c and the easier left
hand varient at 8b+ offer good up side down climbing as well.