Cala Gonone - Sardinia. By Paul Reeve
 


The climbing.

Despite climbing 6 days out of eight, we managed to visit a different crag every day. The majority of the crags are limestone but there are a few granite areas elsewhere on other parts of the Island. Generally, the grades are at the easy end of the spectrum, with a few grade 5's lots of 6's and 7's along with a few grade 8's that will grab your attention. Most of the venues at Cala Gonone are either on the beach or set just inland from the coast. As far as grades go we thought most were on the generous side, except for the gnarly 8a's with desperate mono moves. Ultimately your biggest problem is time and whether you can tick all the classic routes on each crag in just one trip.

Cala Fuili.
First impressions aren't much but the further you go up the valley the better it gets, to the point where you need to bring your own drill as there are a lot of great lines still to go!

There are 4 good crags at this location with other locations having one or two Gemstones.

Settore Pederiva ( aka the Cauldron)
Great location on the hill, bit of a suntrap, Some classic routes . Follow the footpath up the gorge through the trees for about half a km. It's on the right and up a bit of a scramble. All routes between 20-25m

Routes left to right as you look at the crag.

1. Malu 6a straight forward warm up
2. Pippi 6b
3. Doctor Him 6c
4.Pinocchio 6c+
5. Il volo di lcaro 6c+
6. Cenerentola 7c
7. Curore Freddo 8a+
8. Hansel & Gretel 7c a classic of the crag.
9. Cappucetto 7a
10. Route with no name 7b+
11. L'anno che verra 7c+
12. La lampada di aladino 7c+
13. Il gatto con gli stivali 7b+ another crag classic.
14. Un mago corre gli contro il tempo 7b
15. Rolandinho 7a
16. Ciao mio bell'alpin 6c+
17. Viva le pastiglie


Settore Vigani. Just when we thought we were running out of routes we found this place . 20+m routes everyone a classic.

1. Luna Espinada 7b a quick easy tick if you can do the bouldery start.
2. Di Piu 7c ooooh
3. Cannellosa 7b another classic upper a mixture of tufas onto easy ground.
4. Veretbra di moffetta 7a another classic line that takes you up the right of the cave.
5. Orecchie di licaone. A classic 7c+ up a slightly overhanging wall on knobbles.
6. Nido di chiurlo 7c up the side of a stunning tufa feature.
7. Bella di pennella 7a+ a testing start, don't underestimate it.
8. Se questo e il gioco more of the previous but not as hard.
9. no name 6c+
10.

Grottinoe placca di fronte. Opposite Vigiani, if everything else is to easy try something steeper?

Settore Raonia. Worth a visit as Raoni at 8a is a classic. Shame about the one mono move. Although Mr Sharples tells me there is an alternative sequence.

Mutando. Again a classic 7 with a couple of warm routes. You pass it on the way to the Cauldron & Vigani.

Settore Scalini. You might have to wait for the sun to go off the cliff. But then there is lots of hard climbing to go at. Although there is a bit (well perhaps more than a bit) of glue and chipping, this crag has some classic climbs.


Settore Puschtro . Right next to the sea, from a distance it may not look much but if your ticking routes, there are 4 grade 7's that are worth the visit.

Previous pageNext page