The Basques are a distinct people with a different blood group distribution from the rest of Europe and a different build from the Spanish, being more squat and strong. They also have their own language, the complex and perplexing Euskara, which is considered one of the most ancient spoken in Europe. In fact some think that the Basque people are the last surviving representatives of Europe's aboriginal population.

That's all very well, but what of the climbing? I visited two areas in the region, Onate, which consists of many crags all within ten minutes of the car offering some of the finest sports climbs that I have ever failed on, and the upside down world of Baltzola cave. The cave was described by a bunch of young Portuguese climbers we met as "de biggest god damn bitching cave you ever did see man" (they had learnt their English from Ali G videos) and they were right, it is enormous. You need to be operating in the 7's to get the most out of the area and even then the best of the routes are 7c or above, so for me it was very much a redpoint venue.

The cliffs of Onate face all directions allowing one to climb all day in shade or sun if you're fit enough to do so. There are eight main crags, all are limestone offering steep wall or overhanging climbs often up to 35 metres high. Many lines follow tufas, however, this is not the only style with many other routes being similar to Kilnsey climbing. One of the most popular crags partially due to its proximity to the road is Dolu-Haitz, it has a great 7c, Dandy that uses a glued on hold and two bolt on holds which, believe it or not did not detract from the pleasure experienced. The 7b is also three stars and all of the 8's are of the same stature. The cliff to the right is Antosina, which has many more routes with some good two-pitch ones from 6a upwards; the 6a Tatonka Iyontake combined with the 6c top pitch of El Duce Abis Mo really stands out.

San Elias seems to draw the largest crowds with more than eighty routes from 6a to 8c, La Clase A, 7b and the 6c+ Zorion El Futbolitsta are two routes to be recommended for their quality and English crimpy style. It is also home to a wonderful chapel whose wall and roof is used to sac religiously climb the impressive 8a+ roof of Sandali.

The two cliffs on the other side of the river, Korea and Seriedad are reached by walking down an old damn and boulder hopping the stream. The water that the damn holds at bay is one of the most stagnant stretches that I have seen and yet everyday a local lady of about 60 years of age would strip to a bathing costume, plunge in and proceed to complete many lengths of backstroke. We did not follow suit. Korea is home to a series of very hard and very long routes with the easiest being the classic Sonata e Cuchillo y Metralleta, a 7c whose double tufas are climbed one in each hand all the way to the chain. After this there are a couple of 7c+'s one 8a and then it gets really hard. The famous 8c Honky Tonk lives here and this route along with the more difficult connection, Honky Mix 8c+, have seen ascents by female climber Josune Bereciartu. Seriedad offers nothing easier than 8a with the fantastic tufa line of Appaloosa being the crag's main attraction.