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Click here to view larger imagePerformance Profiling requires you to list eight key characteristics or skills that you consider makes the perfect climber. These characteristics can vary from general terms such as power, flexibility and endurance to more specific abilities such as finger strength, undercut strength etc.
Below is an example from a boulderer:-

  1. Finger Strength
  2. Power
  3. Flexibility
  4. Technique
  5. Stamina
  6. Locking Strength
  7. Endurance
  8. Sloper Strength

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Each skill occupies a segment on the web diagram and should be scored out of ten according to its relative significance with ten being the most important (see figure 1.1). It does not affect the report if you cannot identify eight characteristics but the more you have the easier it is to construct a realistic performance profile. The final step requires you to shade in a proportion of each segment according to your current proficiency thereby highlighting specific areas of weakness (see figure 1.2). It is again critical that you are honest with your evaluation as this provides the framework to design a personalised training program.


Figure 1.1 Relative Significance. Figure 1.2 Current Ability.

Skills with larger differences in scores i.e. high scores for perceived significance but low current proficiency suggest that the present training plan isn't developing this critical skill or ability (see figure 1.2). Skills with similar scores suggest that you have achieved a satisfactory level of proficiency through your current level of activity. The follow series of articles will guide you through the basic theories behind designing and evaluating training programs specifically for climbing.

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