Profile of Malcolm Smith Photos by Jerry Moffatt
 


Click here to view larger imageYou recently created quite a stir on a trip to Ailefriode with Jerry Moffatt. Did the style suit you there or are we going to see you flashing more Font. 8a's next year? Can you see yourself flashing harder than Font. 8a?
I flashed two Font. 8a's on that trip and yes the style did suit me, but no more than at a lot of other venues. I want to flash Font. 8a+ problems, that's my next big goal.

You have been spending a lot of time in the States and recently repeated a V11 (Font. 8a) called 'Kingpin', with Chris Sharma. How do you rate Chris as a boulderer and are there any other lines out there that you plan to try?
Sharma is an amazingly gifted climber. Like Jerry Moffatt climbing is an emotional experience for him and this brings something to his art. I'm keen to repeat 'Black Lung' (Font. 8b), 'The Dominator' (Font. 8a+/8b) and 'The Spectre' (Font. 8b+) at Bishop, although I'm in no rush to leave Blighty.

Click here to view larger imageYou have been travelling around a lot lately, are there any crags or problems that stick out in your mind?
I love British bouldering it's got more atmosphere and character. Repeating 'Eight Ball' (Font. 8b) at Gardoms was good for me. Ailefroide is the most picturesque place I have climbed.

You have always placed well in the bouldering competitions you have entered. Do you have any plans to put any more time in to this and possibly enter the whole of the World Series?
I think I may well do the European bouldering competitions this year. I've improved in competitions as I've become a more rounded climber and there's money to be had.

Click here to view larger imageThe name Malcolm Smith has for some time been associated with hard powerful training regimes and cellar boards. What training methods have you found most successful over the years?
There are no secret methods, only hard work. One arm dead hangs have helped a lot as has starting to train and climb more days in a row like other athletes.

What plans do you have for the future?
To keep doing what I'm doing. I want to improve as a climber so I can flash harder problems and win competitions. For me, bouldering is absolutely where it's at, it's the purest form of rock climbing. No ropes and no fear just me verses the moves.

Who are you currently sponsored by at the moment?
Scarpa, S7 and Cordless.

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