You
recently created quite a stir on a trip to Ailefriode with Jerry
Moffatt. Did the style suit you there or are we going to see you
flashing more Font. 8a's next year? Can you see yourself flashing
harder than Font. 8a?
I flashed
two Font. 8a's on that trip and yes the style did suit me, but
no more than at a lot of other venues. I want to flash Font. 8a+
problems, that's my next big goal.
You
have been spending a lot of time in the States and recently repeated
a V11 (Font. 8a) called 'Kingpin', with Chris Sharma. How do you
rate Chris as a boulderer and are there any other lines out there
that you plan to try?
Sharma is an amazingly gifted climber. Like Jerry Moffatt climbing
is an emotional experience for him and this brings something to
his art. I'm keen to repeat 'Black Lung' (Font. 8b), 'The Dominator'
(Font. 8a+/8b) and 'The Spectre' (Font. 8b+) at Bishop, although
I'm in no rush to leave Blighty.
You
have been travelling around a lot lately, are there any crags
or problems that stick out in your mind?
I love British bouldering it's got more atmosphere and character.
Repeating 'Eight Ball' (Font. 8b) at Gardoms was good for me.
Ailefroide is the most picturesque place I have climbed.
You
have always placed well in the bouldering competitions you have
entered. Do you have any plans to put any more time in to this
and possibly enter the whole of the World Series?
I think I may well do the European bouldering competitions this
year. I've improved in competitions as I've become a more rounded
climber and there's money to be had.
The
name Malcolm Smith has for some time been associated with hard
powerful training regimes and cellar boards. What training methods
have you found most successful over the years?
There are no secret methods, only hard work. One arm dead hangs
have helped a lot as has starting to train and climb more days
in a row like other athletes.
What
plans do you have for the future?
To keep doing what I'm doing. I want to improve as a climber so
I can flash harder problems and win competitions. For me, bouldering
is absolutely where it's at, it's the purest form of rock climbing.
No ropes and no fear just me verses the moves.
Who
are you currently sponsored by at the moment?
Scarpa, S7 and Cordless.