Bernd Zangerl - Profile

Where did you start climbing and were you immediately hooked?
I started climbing at a small crag in Schnann, five kilometers away from my hometown Flirsch.
It was only fun to be outside with my friends and travel around… see other people. First I was more interested in alpine climbing and I only did routes till 6c or something like that. In 1996 I started with sport climbing and trained really hard. After my first trip to Tessino I recognised that bouldering was much more thrilling for me and till today I can say that I'm addicted to it.

Do you feel you have a natural ability towards climbing or is it Something you have really had to work at?
Natural ability????? I like to be outside and move on rock. And if you like something you do well. The first years, I think, training was very important and I liked it because I got stronger and I wanted do hard routes.
This year I didn't train really. To go outside and do lots of boulders or trying hard projects is the best training.

What area of climbing would you say is your weakness or the area you have to work at the most? For example power, stamina, technique etc.
Peak District!!!! I didn't feel really strong on Grit, but I liked it. I have to visit more other areas for technique. And power is something you always need.

Before you started ticking some of the hardest boulder problems in the World you used to mainly climb routes. What made you decide to stop concentrating on this and to start bouldering?
I met Thomas Steinbrugger, and he was talking about bouldering. I was interested in it and a few weeks later we drove to the Tessino. After that trip I nearly stopped with route climbing. I was fascinated by those problems. At this time I climbed 8b routes and it was really hard in Tessino to do 7b boulder problems, and I wanted to try those stunning lines where I could hardly hold the crimpers/slopers. Another reason, maybe, are the people who I went climbing with. Bouldering was more relaxed and the atmosphere was better which made it more fun for me. You can do really hard moves on your personal limit without a rope or any other gear.

One of your hardest redpoints to date is a Fr. 8c called 'Tai Chi' at Loruns. Did it take you long to redpoint this route and what other hard routes have you redpointed?
I tried this route for about 10days.
Other routes: - Total Brutal fr.8b+, Closer fr.8c and Super maratona fr.8b+. I also did a lot of 8b's.