Bernd Zengerl - Profile

Have you totally decided to stop redpointing hard routes or are there some routes that you plan to try or finish off?
No, I have some projects for this winter. Really short "boulder" routes, but first I want to finish my boulder projects, then routes.

You repeated the hardest boulder problem in the world, Fred Nicoles Font. 8c 'Dreamtime'. How long did it take you to complete this line and do you think that it is completely at your limit or could you see yourself climbing something harder?
I spend about 24 days on dreamtime. After four days I was able to do all moves and started to link them. For approximately 10 days the first or the last part was wet because the weather conditions in Tessino were really bad the last winter. So I practised a lot on each part, in November and December.
I had a break in January and tried it again in February, another break in March and finally climbed it in April, so I spent five months on dreamtime. But I know I can climb harder.

You have made the first ascents of numerous hard boulder problems, like 'High Spirit' (Font. 8b) and 'Die Unenliche Geschichte' (Font. 8b/+), Massive Attack (Font. 8b) are you not tempted to travel to other countries and try and repeat other peoples test pieces? Are there any problems or areas that you plan to visit in the not too distant future?
First I want to do my projects and then I want to try other boulder problems. The problem is the money because as a student you never have enough of it. If I didn´t have to think about that I would travel more. Fuck! There is so much I want to see like Bishop, Hueco, Peak District, Fontainbleau, to name just a few.
But there are also some hard problems from Klem Loskot in Austria, and some from Fred Nicole in Swiss, which look really great and I am really interested to try them.

If you could visit any climbing area in the world, where would you visit and for what reason?
Bishop, Joes Valley, Hueco, Peak District. I think, it's good for me to boulder there. Maybe it's "my style of climbing". (Mandala, Black Llung, Spectre......). The reason is that I want to see different countries and people. Experience the whole range of `sorts of stone´, moves and just bouldering.
At Peak district, I didn't feel strong last time, it only can get better.

When you last contacted CragX you told us about a project you were trying in your home town of Flirsch. Are you any closer to this problem and what style of climbing does it involve? What would you estimate the grade of this problem to be, once it is completed?
I was very close, (before my England trip). Now it depends on the weather because the boulder is at 2200m attitude, and winter is coming very quickly. It is very crimpy and steep and a long problem (13 moves). It also involves some acrobatic movements (stretch your legs!!!).
Grading is always hard but I think it is really a hard boulder problem.

What would you say is your most memorable climbing experience and why?
Stopping alpine climbing after a horror trip in Marmolada. Staying at the top of Dreamtime, shouting and crying all the tension out into the night, with my friend Thomas.

You are obviously one of the strongest boulderers in the world, are you not tempted to enter the World Bouldering Series and see how you fair against other world class boulderers?
Till now not motivated for comps, maybe in ten years. And if I want to compete I can try their boulder problems as well. I don't like competiting.

What training methods, if any, have you found most successful over the years?
I didn't really train this year. Sometimes I am holding crimps, slopers without using my feet. Climbing indoor would be good, but outdoor is much better!

What plan's do you have for the future and do they possibly involve a visit to the UK?
Maybe I can try my project (if it doesn't snow). I don't think about what I have to try next, it comes as it comes. But for sure I want to repeat other hard stuff and I will come to UK for sure. Clubbing is really great there, and a lot of nice girls.

Who are you currently sponsored by?
Prana, Samsara, 5.10 and Metolius.