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When
you made the video 'Hard Grit' were you into climbing bold style
routes yourself or was this something that developed later?
Which do you find more nerve racking filming ascents of scary routes
or climbing them yourself?
When
I made 'Hard Grit' I wasn¹t into doing bold stuff really. Never
have really.
Don¹t mind how spaced the gear is but as long as it¹s
there. As soon as I know I can hit the ground I really have mind
melt. The thing was at the time I was living with Neil Bentley and
Seb Grieve, knew everyone in the scene and was often dragged out
belying.
I eventually got round to taking a camera out with me. It was absolutely
terrifying. Watching Seb do 'Parthian Shot' (one of the first things
I witnessed) I could hear my heartbeat in my head, you really didn¹t
know that flake was going to hold and knew there was a good chance
that it was going to be tested. Though I've put the camera down
I still got/get dragged out belaying and eventually bored enough
to try nearby routes but the ones I've done ('Balance It Is', 'Cock
Robin' and 'Groove Is In The Heart') I'd consider to be safe-ish.
Now
that all of the awards and ceremony's have calmed down, how do you
know view 'Hard Grit' as a video? Do you think its Slackjaw's best
footage?
I
still think 'Hard Grit' is a bloody good effort. When you make a
film you really are putting your neck on the block and it is scary.
Everyone is so movie literate and it is like art really in it's
subjectivity. So to make something that has had the kind of impact
'Hard Grit' has had is fantastic really.
Nobody can appreciate how hard it is to make films, because every
decision, no matter how small, seems important, will be judged.
Slowly this builds to a ridiculous degree and feeds all your insecurities
about the project. By the end you are a nervous wreck and begging
for somebody to like your stuff. For me the best film I've been
involved in is Salathe, just because it felt like a huge gamble.
The environment and the possibility that we wouldn't have a story
made the achievement all the more vital. It was a very rich experience
and sharing it with only four other people made it very acute. The
best footage is surely the stuff on the final morning bivvy. It
says everything about why you'd choose to climb a big wall.
Having
tried hard Gritstone routes like 'Ray's Roof', do you feel this
prepared you for the crack pitches on the Salathe Wall, El Cap,
when you climbed it with Neil Bentley recently? Did everything run
smoothly when Neil and you were on this route?
Stuff
like 'Ray's Roof' didn't help on Salathe at all. We made that mistake
thinking being able to climb hard cracks was the key. That's how
we trained and by the time we got on the 55m headwall of Salathe
and found that what was needed was just fitness not masterful crack
technique it was too late. If we went back we'd approach the route
very differently.
Afterwards we swapped to trying to on-sight 'Freerider' and what
helped was general body fitness because the hardest part was hauling
the sack and then still being able to keep going for days.
On the route I'd say everything ran smoothly, we had a really good
time. Principally this was because it was such a huge relief to
get on the route. The pressure of making the film and getting fit
was starting to take it's toll on both our mental and physical health
and our relationships. We were getting cabin fever on the campsite
and needed it to be over. Getting on the route was deliverance from
a kind of purgatory; we were finally getting on with the business.
It's amazing to think in the final film only ten to fifteen minutes
are dedicated to the build-up and the rest to the ascent of the
route because in reality the training (11 weeks)
and film prep (6 weeks) had taken all the majority of time. The
ascent having only took five days.
 
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