Millstone
Edge was one of the first crags to regain access after the recent
foot and mouth epidemic. The frustration of months spent climbing
on plastic caused a resurgence of new route activity and classic
repeats. Millstone Edge is the most impressive quarried crag in
the Peak District with an assortment of routes ranging from shallow
peg scarred crack lines to technical arêtes. So, what you
waiting for dust off that trad. rack and get out there, you never
know you might even see me there!
Location:
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This
old quarry has a prime position overlooking the Hathersage valley
just off the A625 Sheffield - Castleton road (click on map). Parking
has become restricted to either the 'pay and display' car parks
just before the crag or the green track in front of the crag (a
favourite spot for joy riders to ditch stolen cars).
Conditions:
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Numerous
sectors have a green appearance most of the time thanks to a light
coating of lichen but if it looks especially green then it usually
means the crag's wet. Most sectors dry quickly even after heavy
rain but don't head up the greener lines unless you've got a death
wish, so that's were the name Green Death came from!