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You are renowned for being an extremely strong boulderer, with first
ascents of such desparates as 'Isla de Encanta' (Font. 8b) and 'Anesthesia'
(Font. 8b+). Do you prefer making first ascents of problems or repeating
other people's hard problems?
Although
many of the things that I'm known for are first ascents that's more
because the lines around here hadn't been climbed. I've always repeated
established things as well but a lot of the time other people won't
know about these because I didn't publicise them (for example Danny's
Problem and Jason's Traverse at Stanage in 1996, Jason's Roof at
Crookrise in 1997). As a consequence I'm more associated with my
more recent new problems.
But I just enjoy climbing good problems and nice lines, I wouldn't
say that I prefer one or the other, they each bring different challenges.
Whilst
on a trip to Fontainbleau you repeated 'Miroir Des Vanities' (Font.
8b) at Cuvier Rempart. What other hard classics have you completed
in the forest and are there any that you would like to go and finish
off?
[I
did the 8b+ version of Miroir i.e. left-right-left].
Generally when I've been to Font I've just been to boulder in general
and not to do specific problems so Miroir is the only one that I've
ticked. Although there are a number of other things that I've come
close to doing including Fatman sit start (back in 1997), Pierre
Philosophale, Enigma (both before and after the first edge broke),
the 8c extended version of La Valse aux Adieux and also Mystification
(I fell on the [Font] 6b finishing problem). So there is plenty
for me to go and do.
Now
that you have completed some of the hardest boulder problems in
the world are you not tempted to take a trip to the states and check
out some of the Nicole and Sharma test-pieces?
There
are definitely problems in the States that I'd like to do but there
are also other places with problems and/or routes that I'd like
to do.
You
are one of the few people to have re-peated the Jason Myers slab
'Work Hard', Curbar England, do you feel more at home cranking out
steep powerful problems or are you equally at ease on thin technical
slabs?
I wouldn't say that I was equally at ease on slabs, I do prefer
problems to be steep or at least overhanging and I'm more at home
with that sort of climbing, but I'm not a one dimensional climber
in that respect.
Does
the traditional bold style of climbing interest you and are there
any routes that you plan to try?
Although I've done some traditional climbing in the past (I climbed
E8 back in 1991) it's not something that I'm into anymore.

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