|

By Calum McLellan
Introduction.
Somewhere in
the plains of Western Victoria is a small mound of rubble that has
somehow become known as 'The Mount'. Despite appearances, '300ft
of muck' according to the first climbers in the area, this oversized
'edge' consists almost completely of high quality, flint hard, quartzite
sandstone.
Being
slow starters, down under, the area didn't generate climber's interest
until the late 1950's and early 1960's. Once they had got over the
initial appearance and they had got themselves close enough to see
the true quality of the rock, a group of climbers, from Victoria
New South Wales, began to rack up ascents of the major lines in
the area. Having bagged most of the classic lines by the end of
the sixties they left the next generation with more technical challenges.
The seventies
was the 'golden age' of climbing at Arapiles, with the likes of
Kim Carrigan, Louise, Chris and Lincoln Shepherd, Greg Child, Andrew
Thomas and a whole host of others trying to make their mark. They
were the makings of the first true Arapiles lifestyle climbers,
of which there are always a few camped out at 'The Pines'. This
change of attitude brought about a big push in the standards of
Arapiles climbing, even more so after the visit, in 1975, from American
Henry Barber.
Barber introduced two new grades to Australia, opening a few eyes
as he did it.
After Barbers
visit the local climbers decided that a bit more effort was required.
By 1984 grades had gone from Barbers effort of 23 (E4) to grade
30 (E7), with Kim Carrigan being solely responsible for every new
grade (from 26>30).
The tradition of living as cheaply as possible and as long as possible
in 'The Pines' still continues today, but the push in standards
stopped after Wolfgang Gullich added 'Punks In The Gym' (32) in
1985. Nowadays the 'hard men' are pushing standards in the Grampians
and have left Arapiles to the people who just want to do a bit of
climbing or maybe go to the pub.

|