By Steve McClure.

Smith Rocks is one of those places that everyone has heard of. Like Buoux, Verdon, El cap, or Burbage, and is probably on most peoples 'must visit' list. Tempted by the thought of crimpy technical walls and perfect climbing conditions, Smith Rocks was high on my list for a long time, but it always seemed like a bit too much effort to get there. Nothing could be further from the truth, if you only have two weeks holiday and think Spain is the only option, think again. I guarantee you won't be disappointed.

Like most climbing trips abroad the start and end bit are pretty crap, but if you can handle a whole days driving for two weeks in France, then a 12 hour flight watching TV will seem like a luxury. Having landed and collected your bags it's only a few hours to the climbing. Don't be disappointed if the weather looks rubbish at the airport, its always gorgeous just over the mountain range to the east, which is where you are heading.

If you are a hard core sport climber that only likes steep pockety limestone then this probably isn't your place, however, for everybody else this is your dream. There are literally thousands of routes all within walking distance of the campsite. Each sector has a different feel making you think you've been to loads of different crags and had a ridiculously long holiday for just 2 weeks.
Most of the climbing is on a bizarre rock type known as 'welded tuff'. This is a hard sandstone type thing, very rough and very edgy, don't bring your floppy boots (and don't intend to buy them in the states either unless you want to pay £100!). Features are large and striking, huge arêtes and corners dominate with flawless faces between. This is the place for the technical master, rarely is there a problem of no holds, more of a problem of how to, and in what order, to use the assortment of edges and layaways. The place has a traditional feel about it, that meaning, you climb the routes like you would climb a trad route, thinking about it, taking your time, working it out. Although there are plenty of bolts you don't just clip and go. Also, combine this traditional feel with a total lack of bolts and you have the ultimate trad climb, of which there are many. Smith Rocks was well developed long before the bolts appeared to make possible the blank faces and arêtes. Some of the best trad routes I've done are here varying from three pitch E1s to single pitch E5s.

Although the boom period for Smith is long but over the place is still busy, and pretty packed at weekends. This keeps the rock clean though chalked up enough for you to identify which are the crucial holds on those blank slabs. There should never be a problem getting a partner if required though rarely is there a queue for a route. Why queue when you can do the route to the left that is also three star? Whatever your grade there is tons to do, this is one of the special things about Smith. If you are cranking out 8a's but your mate prefers 6a's, then this is the place. Similarly, if you are cranking out 8a's but fancy doing a few nice easy, interesting E1's rather than crap limestone 'fives', then again, this really is your place.