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Where to stay
Visiting
climbers can camp for free at Rocktown, although you must pack everything
in, including water. You have to pay to camp at Horse Pens 40, but
it is well worth the 10 dollars a day, which includes your climbing
permit and all the facilities including hot showers and electrical
outlets. For Little Rock City, your best bet is to find cheap lodgings
in Chattanooga, which is also the ideal base for all the areas,
being pretty central. If you want to climb routes as well as boulder,
the crags around Chattanooga will not disappoint, with quality 'trad
and sport crags littering the area. For those with more time who
are prepared for a bit of driving, head over to Boone in North Carolina
which is the latest bouldering area to get the 'Best Bouldering
in the US' title in all the most recent America magazines, (this
trip takes about 4/5 hours). North from Chattanooga, climbers can
do routes in the famous Red River Gorge, although most climbers
will find enough to occupy them on the rocks around Chattanooga
for a good few years!
Season
The best time for a visit is between September and May, although
the winter months between December and February will yield the best
conditions for hard bouldering.
Getting there
This area is only 5 hours ahead of GMT, so jetlag is not a big problem,
and air ticket prices to Atlanta
at present are a lot cheaper than flights to other parts of the
US so these areas can be a viable alternative to European venues
for a two week break. A flight to Atlanta from the UK should take
about 8 hours, and you'll have to drive less than 15 minutes from
the airport to hit your first bouldering area - the bizarre, yet
wonderful area of Boat Rock. A collection of huge round granite
boulders in a forest literally within 10 miles of the runways, an
ideal place for a pre-flight pump before your return flight. The
drive to Chattanooga, or to Rocktown from Atlanta takes about one
and a half hours.
Rest Days
Chattanooga
is a very pleasant and relaxing place to while away your time whilst
you try to grow some skin back on your fingertips! Good places to
eat and chill out include the Stonecup Coffee house and Phat Wraps,
although any restaurant or diner downtown is good. For a true taste
of deep south hospitality, go for a drink at Lamar's. An impressively
seedy drinking establishment, which opens late and closes even later.
Check out a) the size of the drinks, and b) the gold and black velvet
wallpaper! Chattanooga has a number of pretty expensive attractions,
the best of which is the Aquarium, and the strangest of which is
the Tow Truck Museum! For chalk, tape and other climbing bits, head
to Rock Creek Outfitters, or you can pick up gear at TBA bouldering
gym on St Elmo Avenue. TBA also sells 'Hoofmaker', a veterinary
ointment that can be used on the hands/hooves to toughen your skin
up, (and it really works….)!
Further info
For information on the boulders check out: www.southernslopers.com
www.tbagym.com
www.horsepens40.com
or drop into the TBA bouldering gym on St Elmo Avenue in Chattanooga
where the local boulderers hang out. They'll be more than happy
to fix you up with somebody to show you around the local areas.
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