Finally I left
Austria, with my friends Martin "Mungo"Hanslmayr and Werner "Gamsi"
Gamsjäger. We started our trip to Spain, also to shoot for the movie
"ALL YOU CAN EAT". In Tessin/Swizzerland we stopped by to have not
such a long driving.
One day in Chironico:
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KANTE
SD
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7c+ Bloc
- Second go.
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EINE KLEINE
|
7c+ Bloc
- Second go.
|
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RAIN DOGS
|
8a Bloc
- Second go.
|
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DACH
|
7c Bloc
- Flash.
|
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TARZAN
|
7c Bloc
– Flash.
|
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LES DOIGTS
VERTS
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8a/8a+
Bloc Flash, My friend "Mungo" also sent it.
|
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LE PILIER
|
8a Bloc
– Flash.
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The next place we went to was Targasonne in the Pyrenées. It is a
place with a very beautiful landscape. We where lucky because we met
Phil Gondoux, a very nice guy and the local from the Chaos de Targasonne,
which is full of granite boulders. The place is huge and for sure
many more problems could be opened. It is just a question of exploring.
First day: 
|
THANATODROME
|
8a Bloc
– Flash.
|
|
TOMBEAU
DE DAME
|
8a Bloc
- Flash, "Mungo" also flashed it (seems to be easier the 8a
bloc).
|
|
VIOLENT
SNACKY
|
7b+ Bloc
– Flash.
|
|
FLAGELLUM
DAEMORIUM
|
7c Bloc
– Flash.
|
|
AGATHE
THE POISON
|
7b+ Bloc
– Flash.
|
|
UNIFORMICIDE
|
8a Bloc
- Second try.
|
Second day:
To Thanatodrome 8a bloc I added logical sit-down-start, 2 hard moves.
I already
tried it on the first day, but I was way too tired doing it. I named
it QUEEN OF HEARTS - I'M NOT THE KING, I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING AND
SOMETIMES IT IS HARD TO FIND A REASON TO LIFE. This name has many
reasons. The "Queen of hearts" is the first hard 2-move part, and
"I'm not the king, I don't know anything" is because the middle
is still hard enough to fall off, so you don't really can control
anything. The end is quite exposed and has bad landing so it could
be hard "to find a reason to life".
Second repetition of PSOASS-MOLE 8b bloc. "Mungo" did the second
ascent. It is a very nice boulder which looks like an egg. It starts
in the horizontal, has long reaches. It helps when you are tall.
To Uniformicide 8a bloc I added a direct exit. That means you climb
the whole Uniformicide thing, a couple of hard crimp moves, and
then have to do a powerful jump with small footholds. I named it
'GROUND CONTROL TO MAJOR'.
COBALT 60 - 7c Bloc flash.
LORDS OF ACID - 7b+ Bloc flash.
First ascents of the long and pumpy traverse (flash) 'BADEMEISTER',
and 'BADESCHLUSS' a very interesting dyno.
This day in Targasonne will be for long in my memories...

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