In
the new millennium I did not climb so much. I was working a lot
for the book, which I did with Udo Neumann - DER XI. GRAD (The
Eleventh Grade, or a synonym the 9a's Grade... check out www.udini.com).
Then in September '00 I again had all time in world for climbing.
So I started again. After a hard week of being weak I had a nice
day or two, feeling stronger, being able to do something harder
and having fun on moving hard. Then suddenly something strange
happened, like bad weather or women stuff, so I was suspended
for another 3 weeks. Too bad, because I had to start again, one
hard week of being weak, and so on... I never had such weird things
happening, it seems that I'm getting older. Till now (march 01)
I just sometimes smell him, the FLOW.
In
spring I worked on two ultimate boulder projects in Carinthia,
Austria. Their style and the line looked like something new for
me, according to what I have seen on my travels. So I tried them
a lot. But I had two barriers preventing me from accomplishing
them. I was brain tired from working a lot on the book and I was
also lovesick. So I had a hard time. I could conserve my shape,
but the brain was compromised. At least I could do 'THE POWER
OF GOOD BYE' (trying to end up with my lovesickness). It is a
futuristic looking line. The boulder looks like someone cut it
off. There are 
just
a few small crimps in the blank wall. At the beginning you do
some hard and long moves on crimps and then you get to a very
slopey edge. It is hard just to hang on it. From this position
you jump to the lip. It is very slopey so you have to match very
fast. Handling the swing, doing many things on time, being very
fast and not thinking of falling on one of those rocks, which
are waiting for you on the ground, are the keys. It is definitely
a big problem. On the other problem, 'EMOTIONAL LANDSCAPES', I
was close to completing it, but too weak in the end. Anyway, in
this area there is one more futuristic line (looks like a flat
iron) waiting to be done. So I have to get back there and crimp
on hard. I did a new Boulder there, what is the logical combination
of a 5 meter traverse to a straight up one. The whole thing has
very bad footholds and the crux is at the straight up in getting
a bad and slopey under cling up high and bringing the body to
this. Then you really have to go for the ledge, which is far away.
'RITTE DES LEBENS' took me 2 days, some of the harder things I
did at this time.
Not
much more happened in this spring, for how long and intense a
spring could be. I just did a couple of new boulders at Seewaldsee,
near Salzburg. 'ELIJOT', 'ABOVE THE ROAR', 'HOLY HOME', 'STOKED',
'KING OF PAIN' are all lines at the big horizontal cave underneath
the route climbing cliff. They are a nice mix grill between technique
and all around power and really not easy.
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Click on the picture to view the video:
Mungo presents Live Your Dreams.
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Click on the image to view the video:
South East Fried by Klem Loskot.
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