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Parisella's
Cave - Graded List
1.
Left Wall Traverse - V8 - Font. 7b *** - A modern classic. Sit-start
at the very back of cave. Extra lactic points for staying low on
the last ten feet.
2. Left Wall High - V8+ - Font. 7b+ * - Go high after the crux section.
Technical and pumpy. First ascent Neil Carson.
3. The Big Link - V13? - Font. 8b *** - Stamina beyond the call
of duty. No move harder than British 6c, but it fills me with dismay
to consider the levels of fitness required for this link. Start
by cruising the crux section of problem 1, before slapping powerfully
along slopers into the start of problem 4. At the end of this make
a frustrating blind stab to get your left hand into the penultimate
pocket of problem 4, swing right, more pockets, before dropping
into a low undercut (crux). Follow holds back up right into the
finishing hand rail of problem 13 and be careful not to blow the
final exit moves. Fr. 9a? (very nearly dine by Ben Moon).
4.
Rock Attrocity - V9 - Font. 7c ** - Very artificial, stuck in the
middle of nowhere, but nonetheless a superb brutal sequence. Find
the glued flake and walk down into the cave past two drilled pocket's
to a diagonal jug. Hang this and climb out past the flake to a third
drilled pocket which may allow you to grab the finishing horizontal
slot in control. First ascent Jerry Moffatt.
5.
Lou Ferrino - V10 - Font. 7c+ ** - Takes the obvious hanging rib
from a sitting start (feet on ledge, hands on lowest opposing side
pulls) to finish up problem 4. Technical heel-toes, bicycle moves
and accurate dead point slaps, not to mention a bag load of 'keeping
it together' type tenacity are pre-requisites for a successful ascent.
Awesome. First ascent Chris Davies
6. Trigger Cut- V12-13 - Font. 8a/8a+ ** - Start hanging ramp, six
foot right of the finish of problems four and five. Climb straight
out past a drilled pocket, various shot holes and poor edges to
a high jug at the lip of the cave. An amazing piece of cellar style
snatching, which, as far as I know is still unrepeated at the time
of writing. First ascent Chris Davies.
7. Crucial Times - V11 - Font. 8a ** - Essentially a direct to problem
eight. Sit-start just to the right of problem five (on two small
side-pull/undercut crimps). Pull your arse off the deck and reach
out to a mono shot hole (ouch!) and power round to better holds
which enable an essential link into the finish of problem eight.
Evil for sure. First ascent Chris Davies.
8.
Beaver Cleaver - V8 - Font. 7b ** - A zigzag line that starts by
swinging up left to the end of the juggy hand rail, before making
a hopeful sideways lurch to a finger slope at the lip. Somehow finish
up and left on a good finger jug (bearing in mind that in the good
old days Moffatt and Freeman wobbled bravely onwards up the loose
headwall). First ascent Jerry Moffatt.
9.
Clever Beaver - V8 - Font. 7b *** - Low start in juggy break on
problem thirteen, undercut out to sloper etc
a handsome jug
marks the finish. First ascent Tim Freeman.
10. Beaver Right Hand - V4 - Font. 6b+ ** - Hang low jugs, up past
reasonable holds over lip, with a long lock to a high (and pretty
unhelpful crimp) with your right. Tussle to jugs.
11. V4 - Font. 6b+ * - Hang low flat jug (sit start), up to higher
jugs via shothole, dinks and slopey recess. 
12. V4 - Font. 6b+ - Same start as problem eleven, swing out right,
before moving somewhat quickly up to better holds.
13. Right Wall Traverse - V5 - Font. 6c+ ** - From the start of
problem eight swing right down and along low break to finish up
problem eleven.
14. Lipstick - V6 - Font. 7a ** - Same sit start as problems eleven
and twelve, trend left along lip, slapping up left on the holds
on problem ten to an open pinch. Finish with an insane cross through
to the handsome jug at the top of problem nine. First ascent Si
Panton.
 
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