Where did you first start climbing and were you immediately hooked?
First started climbing - unknown really, on some poxy block when I was 4 or 5. I remember leading on brown slabs when I was really young, and doing bits and bobs through 10 to 14 years old. I remember my first E3 at 13. However, it was my first trip away without my family at 16 to Pembroke where I did a bunch of E5's that I can say I really started properly and became hooked.


Click here to view larger image.Do you feel you have a natural ability towards climbing or is it something you have really had to work at?
Not sure I am a natural - is anyone? It's a combination of things that makes you a 'natural', being small and light, flexible (I don't have that), naturally powerful (or that either).
My major strength is ability to give everything - in whatever I do.


What area of climbing would you say is your weakness or the area you have to work the most? For example power, stamina etc.
Yes I am weak. Not obvious but overall compared to a lot of top climbers I am incredibly weak. I have no stamina but I climb quick, I have no power so I slap, I have no strength so I cheat with weird leg stuff, I have no endurance so I find complicated sequences and rests.
I think my contact strength might be OK though

You are renowned for your hard sport routes, when did you first start sport climbing and did it take you long to get good at it?
First sport route was 'Liqeur De Coco' in Verdon, hard 7c+. I should have known from this I was capable of hard stuff. I was 17 at the time, toproped it with many rests, then in a one, then led it, but we had no idea what we were doing, climbing on 2 nines and thinking that to use a long draw on a nasty clip was cheating. I didn't sport climb again till I was 24, that was at Rubicon, first visit to the limestone. I went on 'Tribes' and found it fine, suddenly I realised I could do hard stuff, I could push myself like I did not dare on the E5's and E6's on the grit.

You have repointed two Fr. 9a routes to date, 'Mutation' and 'Northern Lights', Did they take you long to complete and which do you personally feel is the harder of the two?
Click here to view larger image.Both my routes took a long time to complete, way longer than any other route I have ever tried. Mutation took 21 days over 2 years and Northern Lights about 15 in one continuous stint. Hard to say which is the harder, to me they are similar, hence the grade. But grades are so subjective, someone else may find one 8c+ and the other 9a+, or both 8c+ or whatever. I am no expert with grades, on a first ascent you have to just make a best guess working on past experience. Its amazing how far out you can be if you go to a crag without a guide and try to grade what you have done, especially when you are really going for it. I've fallen on 7c's that I think are 8a and succeeded on 8a's that felt like 7c!

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