Kalymnos-a sport climbing paradise.
By Colin Goodey.

Perhaps a milestone in climbing history? The most recent and rapidly developed purpose built climbing venue in Europe and in an area where it would have been least expected: A small island in a group known as the Dodecanese in the Aegean close to the tourist venue of Kos and therefore easy to get to.

Kalymnos has been famous in its history for sponge diving, but this is now a dead trade and the islanders have very boldly and bravely sought help and advice how they might exploit another commodity. Which they have, in great abundance-acres of limestone cliffs, and thus the development of a sport climbing paradise.

The rock is of the highest quality for climbing and with a plethora of the most amazing natural features ranging from huge caves and arches, cracks, corners, overhangs, tufa and wonderful sweeping compact slabs. At time of writing (May 2001) there are over 200 superbly prepared single pitch sport routes spread over 24 independent sectors. With grades ranging between F4a and F8a with the bulk of the grades lying between F5b and F6c ensuring there is really something for everyone except for perhaps the minority who climb above F8a and those whose top end is F4c!

My wife and I enjoyed two blissful weeks in mid-May climbing on pretty well every sector, swam every day and enjoyed immensely the wonderful Greek hospitality and local dishes. On top of this we met some very interesting climbers from many corners of the world, only one local climber (however), and three impressive British teams all intent on producing what will undoubtedly be superb articles and stunning pictures so watch the leading mags, but don't forget you may have seen it first on Crag X!

History
The first climbing 'seeds' were sewn in 1997 by the well-known and respected Italian climbers Andréa di Bari and Andrea Gallo-the latter was responsible for the climbing development in Sardinia. The initiative for further development, publicity, a guidebook and an international climbing festival in the autumn of 2000, came from a well-known Greek mountaineer and great rock pioneer Aris Theodoropoulos-much in Greek climbing is owed to this man who has an international reputation.

Practically all the climbs have been equipped by Italian and German climbers with the Germans leading the field at present producing newly equipped pitches by the month-it's time we got out there and made our mark!

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