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The
left-hand section of Massone is mainly vertical to slightly overhanging,
although numerous corners and small roofs provide visual, if not climbing,
relief. Many routes follow tuffa pillars but, unlike Buoux, pockets are
(thankfully) in short supply. Typically, you’ll be cranking on edges,
and as usual, the harder the route, the smaller and farther apart these
get. The centre-right of the crag is split by a right-to-left fault-line
that is taken by Kabul F6b. Three routes to the right of here is
Action Direct which at F6c+ is stacks easier than its German namesake
and as such is well worth collecting for the name-dropping potential alone.
In the steep central area, Mantide atea F6c+ and Soviet Supremo
F7b+ are excellent routes taking steep walls each with the odd roof thrown
in for good measure. Left of centre, Tis sa arc F6b+ takes a rightward
facing corner until this runs out at the base of the headwall and then
the holds get small and the pump starts to bite. For those into bigger
ticks there are numerous F7c to 8a routes on the steep walls hereabouts.
The taller right-hand section, which was developed in
the early nineties, is about two minutes walk up the valley. The
central section of this big impressive crag is dominated by a 25
to 30 metres overhanging wall that is capped by a big roof. This
crag is bounded on the left by a huge overhanging corner that is
taken by one of Massone’s must-do routes, Beach
Boys F7b+. If this is your grade then don’t leave without doing
it. The secret is to take it steady and just keep bridging above
the ever-increasing void. Don’t worry about the top roof, there
is a good rest just below and a few stiff pulls should see you on
the belay. Treat it like three F7a+ on top of each other but with
rests instead of lower-offs. Just left of Beach Boys is M.S.
F7c is also reported to be excellent but don’t stray any further
left as you’ll find an F8b/8b+ waiting for you. Back right from
Beach Boys, easier routes are in short supply, although Efemde
de Sisco F7a+ and Epilogo F7a+ are well worth the effort.
Right again the impressive and gently overhanging wall rises up
to the capping roof at 30m. Of the half dozen or so routes which
climb this wall, one or two routes have bolted-on holds to allow
‘blank’ sections to be climbed at a grade consistent with the rest
of the route. You can judge for yourself if this is acceptable practice
- o letters please! Up and right of here the base of the crag rises
and a wire cable bolted to the rock is used to get up to the base
of the right-hand end of the crag. Unfortunately, the crag fades
out fairly quickly past here although not before several more routes
are passed. For some reason these routes don’t seem to attract a
lot of attention, although if you fancy twenty odd metres of jug
hauling up steep rock then Mangia cacca F7a isn’t to be missed.
Further on up the valley, huge caves, formed by old mining activities,
are home to half a dozen routes between F7c+ and F8b+. So there
you have it, Massone with all its routes has plenty to choose from
and definitely has something for everybody. One final point, Massone
mainly faces east so don’t expect shade until mid-afternoon.
 
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