Sports Climbing

Of the well established sport crags, Massone and Val di Gresta (Nomesino), both of which lie in the hills to the east of Arco, and Spiaggia delle Lucertole, which rises direct from the waters of Lake Garda, represent a cross section which should satisfy the appetite of most visitors.

Massone is one of the best sport crags in the area and certainly one of the most accessible being only a mile or so from Arco and only thirty seconds max. from the road! It was originally used as the warm-up crag for entrants to the Arco competition, a quick route here and then it was down to the lion’s den for slaughter. The exercise area with its pull-up bars and sit-up benches etc. is still there, retained perhaps as relics of the past. There is even a nettie (an outside toilet), though cleanliness is definitely not guaranteed!

Today, Massone hosts over 100 sport routes in two main areas, although some huge caves farther up the valley have been developed with a few routes. Whilst its fair to say that most climbs are between 20 and 30 metres long, some on the right-hand section of the crag, are way longer, say up to 30 to 35m. Don’t pack your 55m rope for a trip to Massone, invest in a long rope otherwise descents will be hair-raising so say the least. Grades range from F5 to F8b+, so there is more than enough to interest most climbers. The majority of routes are in the F7a to F7c grade range and therefore it’s a veritable on-sighter’s paradise for your average sport climber. A word of warning though, try not to be there around August/September when the Arco competition is on, else you’ll be greeted by globe-trotting, cruise-monsters which is not to be recommended; to much damage to the ego!