Crags.

This article has only touched on the crags in the immediate vicinity of Monaco. Within an hours drive there are over 60 different 'falaises'.

The guide book 'L'escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes' is widely available in most newsagents, Decathlons, sport shops around Nice and Monaco and lists all of the best ones.

It is also possible to obtain online topos of all of the routes from www.multimania.com/grimppg/2index.html

The following site also gives information about Nice and the surrounding area. It is all in French and English.

www.ffme.fr/cosiroc/_pays_ni_c_cois_around_nice_ct.html

The nature of the crags is very different to those found in the Calanques. During our visit, we were the only climbers, even though the weather was perfect. This lack of visitors means there is scarcely any chalk on the routes and the rock is still quite rough, not like the slick, soapiness of the routes around Marseille. The holds are also smaller and crimpier although not unpleasant.

Getting to La Turbie and finding the crags.

It is easy to find La Turbie on the map. Once you have found the centre of La Turbie, stop and get a guide book at the newsagent. Take the sign to Cap d'Ail and head down the hill for about 500m. A left turn up a slight hill and through a residential area will bring you to a rough parking area beside the France Telecom building overlooking Monaco and the Cote d'Azur. See the map.

The majority of the crags are now directly below you on the headland. Finding the path down to the crags, the first time, is less easy.

For all of the crags apart from La Loubiere and Secteur des Surplombs, walk to the end of the headland and climb over the wall. It is possible to make out a faint path through the scree that leads improbably throught the trees and down the left side of the promontory, back towards the France Telecom building. The path is easy to follow once you have found it and brings you directly to the crags in about 2 mins.

For La Loubiere and Secteur des Surplombs follow the steps to the right of the headland and you will see the crags on the hillside.

The main areas at La Turbie are:

1.Secteur Big Ben

This is a very steep little cave with some less steep routes on either side. The sun is on the wall for most of the day and is therefore ideal for the winter months. It is this crag that features in most of the pictures as the photographer is deep inside the cave, with the climber hanging over Monaco, way below.

2. La Loubiere

A short walk in will bring you to this crag which is stacked full of 3s, 4s, 5s and 6s. The crag receives the sun all day long and is at a angle that many will like (slabby). The routes here are not very long and the style is similar to that found at Upper Pen Trywn with pockets worn by water erosion.

3. Secteur des Surplombs

Not as spectacular as the name suggests but another crag full of 6s and lower 7s. Slightly steeper than La Loubiere.

4. Paroi du Fort

A very impressive looking wall that you can see below you when you arrive in the car park. The wall accommodates 2 and some 3 pitch routes. The majority of the routes are in the mid 6s and low 7 grade, although there are some classics in the high 7s and Kashmir, 8A is excellent.

You will pass this crag if you are looking for Secteur Big Ben as these sectors are a continuation of the same wall.

Like Secteur Big Ben, this sector receives the sun most of the day until early-afternoon.

5. Grande Face

Unfortunately this crag receives little sun but is an impressive, tall overhanging piece of rock. You will more easily see this wall when you are at Big Ben or Le Fort. It is the face below the path you took to get down. There is not much below 7 here and the best routes are in the 7c grade. In addition there are many 8a / 8a+ routes on tufas and small roofs.

6. Passages du Vent

To get to this crag follow the path to La Loubiere and turn left around the headland. The crag receives the sun most for the day. There are some easier slabby sectors within this area. The main sectors Peripherique Ouest has a good range of routes. But as the name suggests, these sectors can suffer from the wind and are more exposed

7. La Haine

A collection of routes split by rock chutes. The majority of the routes here are in the 4, 5 and 6 grade. The angle is less inclined than the steeper sectors.