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History
My last couple
of days in Oz, and finally I’ve got some info on the past. Whether
it’s true is anyone’s guess.
As far as I
can muster the 1st boulder problem in the Grampians was
the Taipan wall traverse (or part of it as it now exists) done by
Mike Myers in the late 80’s shortly after James Falla pronounced
it impossible. The same duo along with Edwin Irvine had a bit of
a look round the Gramps and decided "there was no bouldering".
So this was
the end of Gramps bouldering shortly after it started. That is until
Nic Sutter spotted a large boulder at the trackside area which yielded
the 1st
hard problem in the area called "Sick Nutter" (V4). The
fact that this boulder had lines all around it resulted in it being
named the Amazing boulder. Shortly after Nic headed off to Europe
and the likes of Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney and Stuart Wyithe took
up the challenge and started developing areas such as Loopeys, Kindergarten,
Citadel,the Titanic and Andersons. On frequent trips through the
Hollow Mountain Cave on the way to other areas Dave Jones did a
couple of stand up problems in the cave thinking that one day problems
from the bowels of the cave would go, even though Gordon thought
it was too blank.
Then Sydney
strongman Paul Westwood appeared and added the Happy Camper (originally
V9, now V8) which took over the mantle of hardest problem in the
Gramps. It was also about this time that Dave Jones added a stand
up V8 with a tricky mantle at the Citadel thinking it might go from
lower. It did eventually, but at an arm numbing V14! Then a huge
bush fire in 1997 took out a lot of scrub revealing more boulders
at the campsite area and also the titanic boulder was revealed.
And then in
1999 on a 3 month mega trip Klem Loskot and Toni Lamprecht kicked
ass ticking almost every available line in old and new areas alike
adding sit down starts as though there lives depended on it. Thanks
to these guys and there entourage of fans the climbing websites
were being updated on a daily basis a la soap opera. The print out
topo was born.
The nature
and style of climbing in this area, much like Taipan wall itself
means the standard of bouldering here is pretty high. Unfortunately,
unless you are climbing V4 and above there really isn’t a lot to
do here. If this is the case then the boulders at Mount Arappiles
will be much more suitable where the rock is less steep and often
requires a dam site more technique.
 
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