The crags.

The Red River Gorge is the name for a collection of ever growing crags on both private and public land. Access is fine at present and the local community is very supportive of climbers. New routes and crags are being developed with the permission of the owners. There are a number of guides available and they are easy to pick up once you are in the area either at service stations or Miguels. 1. Red River Gorge Climbs by J.H. Bronaugh published by Geezer Press, Lexington. - A large glossy guide with all routes, both trad and sport. 2. Selected Climbs at the Red River Gorge by Porter Jarrard and Chris Snyder published by El Rancho Relaxo. - Only selected sports areas. All crags and routes in this article are bolted. Below is a description of the six "official" climbing areas although there are many more being developed that are definitely worth a visit. These can be found in the guide book "Red River Gorge Climbs".

The Motherlode (10 min approach).
The Motherlode can further be divided into a number of sections. The Undertow Wall. A popular, leaning wall of 25 - 30 degrees full of 25 - 30 m endurance routes ranging from 12a (7a+) - 13a (7c+). All are worth doing. Not a bad route among them. Only receives the sun in the late afternoon. The Madness Cave. Not difficult to spot. A continuation of the Undertow Wall at an angle of at least 45 degrees. Routes up this section all have permanent draws and are nearly 40m long. Some of the best are Bohica 13b (8a), The Madness 13c (8a+) and Omaha Beach 13d/14a (8b). All are brilliant, endurance routes that you won't find anywhere else. Again, this part of the crag only receives sun after midday.

Roadside Crag (5 min approach).
Sunny all day. This area is very popular and has a great spread of grades from 11a (6a) - 12b (7b). The routes are typically steep with pockets and plates. There are many classics, the most enjoyable being the immensely long, The Return of Chris Snyder 11d (6c+ / 7a).

Pocket Wall. (10 min approach if you have a 4 wheel drive or 1 1/2 hr walk if you don't want to risk the rental car).
This is the location of one of the most famous images of the RRG, Mississippi Moon 10a (5+) - A climber standing in a huge hueco / pocket looking for the next moves.

Military Wall (10 min approach).
A very popular crag with all grades, the most prevalent ranging from 10d (5+) to 12b/c (7b+) level. There is also is a popular 13b (8a) and 13a (7c+), both with boulder problems. The routes are all located close to each other and well protected. Military wall is situated very close to Left Flank so a trip there is also possible in the same day without moving the car. This wall is very popular at weekends as shade or sun can be found at all times.

Left Flank (10 min approach).
A good selection of routes with the most popular being in the mid 12s and above. A beautiful, long 13a that as usual covers steep ground.

Phantasia (3 min approach).
A crag with only 4 routes but all of them are classics and well worth doing. Super steep.

Torrent Falls (3 min approach).
A crag with a good mixture of grades. There are a number of sections to this crag so it is possible to find shade or sun, if required. There are 3 / 4 excellent 10d /11a s as well as a stunning and testing 12a. There is also an incredible 13b with some very solid moves that follow the prominent arete and then goes through the main cave.