How old were you when you first went climbing and were you any good?
15 only did VS for first year.

Climbing has been a major part of your life, but when you were little what did, you want to be when you grew up?
From when I started at 15, I wanted to be a climbing bum.

You have become an inspiration to many climbers around the World but who was your inspiration when you first started climbing and why?
John Bachar had the biggest influence on me at 19. I learnt a lot about training and diet, basics that are still true today.

You have accomplished such a great deal in your climbing career but what have you had to sacrifice to achieve this?
Nothing really except I was broke until I was 27 or 28.

What would you consider to be the major qualities necessary to climb the hardest routes in the World?
Motivation without doubt assuming you have the right genetic qualities without that you've no chance.

How has your training changed over the years from your time on the competition circuit to today?
Now I only do strength work it's all about quality not quantity but you'd need a few pages to answer the question fully. Power only takes 2 hours absolute max endurance needs about 4 or 5. I won 9 international competitions in two years twice as many as the next best Brit. something, which I feel gets overlooked. It's so hard to win you only have to look at the great climbers who haven't won any.

What does a professional climber do on rest days?
I don't have many rest days but I play golf, I try to play or hit balls daily. You'd think I was pretty good then wouldn't you well I am crap.

If you could pass on one piece of advice for all the budding rock stars out there what would it be?
Read books on strength training, stretching, diet and sports psychology the last being very important.

What do you have planned for next year?
I just want to climb really fucking hard shit.