Speed Limit. By Jerry Moffatt

J.M - Boone you're looking pretty clean and hip for a climber, how long have you been at it?

B.S - You think I look pretty? Must be the hair loss and dark circles under my eyes. I've been climbing trees, furniture and buildings all my life. Been climbing properly for 15 yrs.

J.M - Were you good at other sports before climbing?

BS - I was usually like second pick for most teams, not bad but not exceptional. Got fairly good at skiing and BMX when I was young. Climbing is definitely my best sport.

J.M - What type of climbing are you doing most?

BS - Now with a job and all, mostly bouldering. It seems like it's the least time consuming way of getting in lots of climbing. I'm always psyched to do routes as well, I just don't have the fitness it takes to be at the highest level.

J.M - At your age (what is it anyway) are you still improving?

B.S - I'm 34 and still improving. I just need more rest now.

J.M - What aspect of your climbing do you focus your attention on the most? (technique, power etc.).

BS - Depends on what problem I'm trying .... although it's really easy to confuse the two. Most people blame failure on a lack of power; I reckon bad technique is to blame more often. That said, I'd rather be strong and dumb than smart and weak.

J.M - Give us 3 hot training tips?

BS - I'm not the guy to ask. I've barely got enough time to climb. I do have a fingerboard in my office and in my house that I hang from all the time. My theory is that at least my fingers are always ready to work. This worked for me when I climbed ' Ice Cream' which is a really fingery route. As for training advice, I'd say experiment with all different devices and theories and pick the one that suites you.