From then on each year I would set myself a new grit challenge, choosing great looking routes. I had to be inspired by a line to justify the risk in the ascents. Now, to climb the routes I was top roping them first. I was not brave or good enough to climb the routes in any other way. Unlocking the sequences on many grit routes is a real problem solving challenge which often takes me quite some time. I like the way you develop a relationship with a route over time and come to know respect every piece of the rock. I would try to limit the amount of top roping in an effort to make it feel as if I wasn't cheating as much! It is always difficult to make the decision to commit to the headpoint, if you get it wrong as I did on a route called ' Slackers' of Rob Barker's at Curbar. I fell about 20 feet onto my side, luckily landing on a well placed ruc sac (no bouldering mats then!) and sent my spotter, poor Neil Pearsons, flying down the slope. He was more hurt than me.

97, I repeated Jerry Moffatt's route, Renegade Master, my first grit E8, although at the time it was given E9. As with many climbs I try, I found an easier sequence to Jerry's original making the crux moves for the top somewhat easier for me. ( My long arms often allow me to do moves most other climbers could only dream of!) Not as dangerous as some but very hard climbing. It still hasn't been climbed without the insitu piece of gear which is off route, tantalizingly waiting for someone to come and solo it without the gear - a good challenge ground up, flat landing but still 20ft to the ground from the last rounded awkward mantle…..

In 97 my interest in the arete began. Having looked at many other possible lines this one looked well doable from the ground. Pretty short really. Then I abseiled down it to discover just how poor the holds were. Holds which were 30 feet above the deck. It struck me that you could put some gear in the break at about 14 feet, running belayer, was it possible to fall from the crux? 98, back again in the Spring, this time on top rope.

I was strong after lots of bouldering and I'd climbed New Statesman in January, which built my confidence. I really wanted to do this route now. I kind of did most of the moves, but I had a hideous sequence at the top, no way could I have ever committed to this sequence, it was 8c, desperate. I couldn't see any other way of climbing it that day, I tore a finger open and left Burbage South, tail between my legs. 99.

Back again in the early Autumn, having climbed Partheon Shot earlier in the year I was now super psyched for the arete. After a coupe of days on it, trying my old method to no avail I came out with Rich Heap. Rich, with his shorter stature and different view on things discovered a pebble on the crux section. A small pebble, that brought it down a grade, just enough for me to now feel more comfortable with a possible lead attempt. But first I had to climb it in one on a top rope, this took a few days of effort, splitting tips, poor conditions, learning the feel of the route and getting to trust the very poor foot holds on the crux sequence. I questioned Ben about his sequence but after 5 years he couldn't really remember so he came out and had a go, it was really interesting to see other people tackling the route. With other friends trying the route with me I secretly worried about the prospect of the pebble snapping off, fortunately it stayed intact.

I had gone through a few belayers during this process which I found unsettling as I have always believed the relationship between climber and belayer is an important part of doing the route. It had to be a friend I could trust and who had confidence in me when I tied into the sharp end. Seb Grieve offered his services but had to disappear to Chile. I was left with Rob Scaife, a friend of many years with a great positive attitude who was good at hiding his fears! We did drop tests and Rob practised running and taking in the rope. The fall looked unpleasant though possible from the crux move but was a long way above a rather bouldery landing if the belayer failed to take enough rope in. Rob learnt what I looked like on the crux moves when I was on and off them, he didn't want to pull me off accidentally.