How to find Misja Pec the crag

Follow the map below
Misja Pec

the routes


The four sectors
There are four different "sectors" to Misja Pec.  Each wall offers a different type of climbing.  All walls have relatively large holds and steepness as the main characteristics. 
The length of the routes also varies from short 12m pitches to stamina sapping 35m - 40m pitches. 
As the walls face different directions, it is possible to climb in or out of the sun all day long.  If it does rain, all of the walls stay completely dry.  The walls are adjacent to each other and as the entire length of the crag is not more than 500m, it is possible to make a base in the middle and work different routes with an easy walk of not more than 2 minutes between either end.

Easier routes
As you will see from the Favourites below, there are only a few routes below 7A.   Misja Pec is best suited to the climber who is either repointing or onsighting routes of 7A / 7A+ and above, comfortably.  For the climber who has sights on 7C and above, it is the best place ever. 
If you are going with a partner who wants to climb routes below 7A, the nearby crag of Osp has a much wider selection, so you can alternate days or afternoons etc.  The crag of Osp will be featured in a future article. Both crags, Misja Pec and OSp are only 500m apart but are so extensive they must be covered separately.


Route spread at Misja Pec



The topo will not be reproduced here to protect the work of local climbers and guide book writers.  There are many guide books available.  It is possible to buy the latest at the campsite.
Instead we have tried to present a selection of our favourites for each grade.   Ideally we would list them all but what follows are those routes that stuck out in our minds.

Favourites

6B+ PECENICA
26m
popular warmup, can be done as two pitches (26m).  tricky start leads to good climbing on pumpy holds
6C+ RODEO
18m
a fantastic route swarming up the tufa, first to the right and then moving left after a hard move.
7A KRAVICA
16m
quite hard for 7A.  Don't be put by the fact it is an overhanging corner.  That is the easy bit - lots of big hidden jugs.  The crux is actually getting to the bottom of the corner.  This is done by moving rightwards after the inital easy start.
The top pitch is also well worth doing and can be done in one rope length - 7A+
7A+ KINDERGARTEN
18m
tufas all the way with a crux at the top pulling over the bulge and into the sunlight.   Nothing like it in the UK.

SRECA VRTNICE
19m
super steep jug hauling.  Very good fun.  Absolutely no small holds.

7B NINA
20m
whole variety of climbing in one route
7B+ BULA
18m
solid, powerful moves off good holds.  A truly awesome route.  Quite hard.

HUGOLINA
17m
soft touch.  Intricate and pumpy climbing on well manicured pockets and edges.   Great looking line.  Hardish move moving left at 2/3 to a big rest.

7C NOCNA KRONIKA (first pitch only)
22m
beautiful moves all the way. technical and pleasing start.  good rest on the ledge at half height.  Move left from the ledge and then back right heading for all the tufas.   Move from a big flake to an undercut with the left.  Hard throw with the right (crux).  Pull over and into the groove.  Get the hands in the right order and keep pulling to the belay.  Optional extra - all the way to the top 8A+. 

PREOBRAZBA
22m
maybe 7C+.  easy start.  Move left over the first roof and then back right to a good rest.  Keep going on good holds.  Holds get smaller but still positive as the you move slightly sight and up to the big overlap.  Traverse this leftwards and upwards, and around the tufas to a knee bar rest, make sure you take it.  Pysch up for "the sequence" and lunge for the big jug.  Brilliant.  This route must be on your tick list.


HUGO (first pitch only)
22m
also maybe 7C+ easier than Preobrazba.  easy start to the first roof.  Pull over using small holds, make the clip and continue fighting the unexpected pump.  Try to shake out desperatley.  Continue and pump some more.  slap for the bottom of the crack.  Monster jugs up to a hands off rest.  Up and right to the tufa.   Another brilliant route.

7C+ ROCK'N'ROLL
22m
just scrapping into 7C+.  Start up a steep overhanging flakeline - easier than it looks - hug holds, moving right then back left to a good rest that you will not want to leave.
Move up and right using pockets to a good hold, big throw to a crimp.  Pull through for an undercut and then over the bulge at the top.  Quality moves all the way.

MANANA
13m
good long moves on good holds.  Lots of chalk and an infinite number of sequences.   Good rest at 2/3 height.  Crux moving left to easier finishing holds.

8A CHIQUITA (first pitch only)
23m (feels longer)
awesome first pitch of bigger sister route.  Tricky start, with pumpy roof section,   swing through roof, 6m tufa section on good hold to a rest.  Techical bridging groove - awesome - on small pinches.  Miss the dogging clip and focus all the way to the belay, facing a 12m fall into fresh air.
8A+ SAMSARA
19m
perfect holiday route - soft touch.  Big holds to start, hard move low down, throw off monster undercut hold.  5 or 6 hardest, sequency pulls on small crimps to a good rest.  Technical pockets and edges to finish.
8B CHIQUITA
32m
awesome first pitch as before (see 8A) followed by good rest and super steep top wall, involving heel hooks, cimps and major pumpiness.  Originally graded 8B+.  Hard.   Major line.  Impressive.  Crux right at the top 30m.
8B+ MARIONETA
19m
short (for Misja Pec) and powerful, full of friendly, drilled pockets.  Long moves between good holds - ideal for the gym monster.  Gets a lot of traffic.  Crux at 1/3 height.
8C TALK IS CHEAP
15m
often tried.  Very steep.  Looks Ok until you see someone on it.  Big moves, very horizontal. 
8C+ ZA STARO KOLO IN MAJHHEGA PSA
13m
often tried.  Only been repeated once by Pedro Pons.  Short, powerful, horizontal.

Previous Page.Next Page