The
Entre-Prises UIAA World Championships.
What
do you mean these are all the holds, how are we supposed to build
over fourteen routes with just these? As usual, the route setter's
job never runs according to plan especially for events such as this
the World Championships. The lads from Entre-Prises had been working
round the clock assembling the modular fibreglass wall, which was
virtually finished when the team met up on the Monday night. Neil
Bentley headed the route setting team, which included Ian Vickers,
Andy Long and Percy Bishton.
Route setting
on the Tuesday morning was slowed down by a lack of holds and missing
cherry pickers. Ian Dunn saved the day by supplying addition Entre-Prises
holds from their stand so that route setting could continue. So
it's not true Squawks isn't as tight as a ants *%&"$. When the cherry
pickers finally arrived on Tuesday afternoon the route setters could
really speed up their work.
I
bet you're sat there thinking how hard can it be all you have to
do is bolt holds on a wall. Let me set the records straight it's
^%$£#+ hard work the team worked over twelve hours every day before
the competition and until 1 and 2 in the morning on the competition
days. Despite these minor setbacks and Ian nearly taking out the
lower Freeform leg on the Thursday morning by Friday most routes
had been virtually built ready for the competition to begin.
Was the World
Championship a one horse race? On paper Yuji Hirayama from Japan
looked to have the competition in the bag. His general climbing
versatility and immense strength had enabled Yuji to onsight the
first F8C and his general popularity with the crowd made him the
odds on favourite. But competitions are funny things and anything
could happen in the heat of battle.
Over
120 competitors from around the World had congregated on the National
Indoor Arena in Birmingham for the 1999 Entre-Prises World Championships.
In addition to the normal 'difficulty' competition, speed climbing
would be part of the whole World Championship experience along with
lectures and trade stands. The next three days would see the Worlds
top climbers competing for the chance to be in the final and become
the World Champion.
Despite the
severity of the qualifying routes all the usual big names managed
to advance through to the next round. Although some competitors
did dispute the grades of the routes, complaining that the left
route was possibly too hard, which might explain the number of climbers
who all reached the same point. Although
from its name you would assume that 'Speed climbing' would be dynamic
and exciting but oh no the heats involved the competitors climbing
the same routes over and over again, interesting the first few times
but not after an hour.
Saturday started
with the men climbing first on their semi-final route which ascended
the right overhanging leg and crossed onto the Freeform section.
The biggest shock was that neither Francois Petit nor Francois Legrand
managed to make it through to the final. Yuji Hirayama fought valiantly
on the route but could not manage to top out despite the crowd's
encouragement.

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