World Bouldering Cup | International Masters
UIAA-ICC World Bouldering Cup
A Brief History of the UIAA-ICC World Bouldering Cup
Bouldering events entered
the UIAA-ICC calendar as far back as 1994 but only as Masters events.
The French were instrumental, with the Ecrin competition being one
of the first to gain prominence. Also in ’94 came the first
Foundry International Bouldering Open (FIBO), which was another unofficial
event that helped develop the format. The mainly French Top Rock Challenge
started in 1997 with half a dozen events around southern Europe. This
mutated into the first official World Cup in 1999, with the first
event being held in the picturesque Spanish town of Benasque. Averaging
5-6 events per year the World Bouldering Cup is an exciting series
that gives you the action right there in yer face.
The 2001 series has had events at Gap and Chamonix in France, Rovereto
in Italy, and Munich. Also for 2001 bouldering became one of the disciplines
at the UIAA-ICC World Championships, held in Winterthur, Switzerland,
in September.
The 2002 calendar is shaping up with events planned in Fiero del Primiero
(Italy), Gap, Chambery (France), Rovereto and Warsaw, as well as at
the European Championships in Chamonix. It is hoped that 2003 will
see the first Bouldering World Cup in North America, with the Canadians
keen to host an event.
 Gareth Parry
A member of the British climbing team for…..ever, Gaz has experienced
competition success both at home and abroad. This year started with
2nd places in both the Troll BICC and S7 BBC. This good form continued
as he then came 17th at the World Cup in Gap, 19th in Munich then
capped it all with a 14th at the UIAA-ICC World Championships at Winterthur
in Switzerland.
Malcolm Smith
Probably one of Britain's greatest success stories Malcolm’s
name speaks for itself. World renowned on the Bouldering scene this
Scotsman has pushed forward the standard of British climbing. This
year saw Malcolm retain his title again at the S7 British Bouldering
championships with what seemed to be the utmost ease. Previous competition
success also includes 1st place at the FIBO '95. And outdoors of
course, Malcolm is as good as anyone, anywhere, period.
 Ian Bitcon
A full-time firefighter, Ian’s strength and determination
are most visible on the wall. This year coming 7th in the S7 BBC
and most notably in 25th position at the World Championships.
Stuart Littlefair
Another competent competitor amongst the British team is Stuart.
Impressive results include 2nd at the S7 BBC’01 and 8th in
’01. Notably Stuart’s talents do not stop there, since
he is also a lecturer of Astrophysics!
 Claire Murphy
Climbing for only five years Claire has experienced a rapid improvement
in her climbing over this period. The expansion of Claire’s
bouldering potential can be seen, 1st in the S7 BBC ’99 &
’00, 3rd in the Foundry International Bouldering Open 1999.
On an International basis Claire’s best results have been
1st at the Mad Masters, 3rd Konitsa World Cup and 2nd at the Pusher
Comp in Salt Lake, all in 2000.
 Lucy
Creamer
One of the most experienced female British team members, Lucy’s
adaptability makes her invaluable to the team. Backed up by results
such as current S7 BBC champion, and Troll BICC champion in ’98,
’99 and ’01, Lucy proves to be a great asset. High results
and a great enjoyment for the sport is not the only thing that Lucy
has achieved. This year Lucy achieved the first ascent of Mighty
Aphrodite (M9) in Ouray, Colorado.
Jérôme Meyer
FRA
1st at Rovereto and Gap 2001. UIAA ranking 1, 7th in ’00,
3rd in ’99. Young, strong and talented Jérôme could well be
the one that walks off with this years title.
Daniel Andrada
ESP
1st at Chamonix and Munich in 2001. UIAA ranking 2, 5th in ’00,
5th in ’99. 26 year old Dani is a stamina beast and is just
as at home cranking 8c+ on Spanish limestone as he is doing World
Cup events.
Mauro Calibani
ITA
Current World Champion. UIAA ranking 3. 27 year old student Mauro
is most famous for his beard sprag at FIBO ’97.
Tomasz Oleksy
POL
1st at the Arco Rock Master in 2000. UIAA ranking 4, 25th in ’00,
16th in ‘99. Tomasz is a 25 year old student.
Frédéric Tuscan
FRA
1st at Argentiere International 2001. UIAA world ranking 5, 6th
in ’00, 30th in ’99.
Salavat Rakhmetov
RUS
1st at the urban Rock FIBO’99, Arco Rockmaster 2001 and 1st
Rovereto 2000
UIAA world ranking 6, 2nd in ’00, 8th in ‘99. Salavat
has been around the competition scene forever and is still cranking
hard. 33 and still a potential winner.
Cristian Core
ITA
UIAA ranking 7, 8th in ’00, 1st in ’99.
First ever Bouldering World Cup Champion back in 1999 this friendly
27 year old copper is still up there with the best of them.UIAA-ICC
World Bouldering Cup, Top 10
Jean Baptiste Jourjon
FRA
UIAA ranking 8, 43rd in ’00.
Stephane Julien
FRA
UIAA ranking 9, 4th in ’00, 7th in ’99.
Also competes in the Ice World Cup and is quite a party animal.
Kilian Fischhuber
AUT
UIAA ranking 10, 18th in ’00, 49th in ’99.
Women
 Sandrinne
Levet FRA
UIAA ranking 1,
1st at Lecco (leading), Rovereto, L’Argentiere, Chamonix,
Munich in 2001, 1st in ’00, 3rd in ‘99.
Already champion once, Sandrinne is still only 19 and should be
a dominant force for years to come in the competition world.
 Myriam
Motteau FRA
Current World Champion
1st at Gap 2001
UIAA ranking 2, 4th in ’00, 52nd in ’99.
This 23 year old student is the only one this year that has managed
to keep close with Sandrinne.
Elena Choumilova
RUS
1st in Chamonix, Rovereto 2000 and at FIBO ’95 and ‘97
UIAA ranking 3, 2nd in ’00, 2nd in ’99.
Elena injured herself halfway through last season, missing out on
a virtually guaranteed title, she is now back to her best and is
a likely podium finisher.
 Olga Bibik RUS
25 year old student.
UIAA ranking 4, 6th in ’00, 16th in ‘99.
Corinne Theroux FRA
1st at Arco Rock Master 2001
UIAA ranking 5, 7th in ’00.
Emilie Pouget
FRA
18 years old, UIAA ranking 6.
 Natalia Perlova UKR
2nd at urban Rock FIBO’99 (anyone remember the spinning hold
incident?).
UIAA ranking 7, 11th in ’00, 12th in ’99.
Nicola Haager
GER
22 years old. UIAA ranking 8, 20th in ’00, 47th in ’99.
Olga Jakovleva
RUS
UIAA world ranking 9.
Ruth Plannels
ESP
UIAA ranking 10, 22nd in ’00, 37th in ’99.
Expect plenty
of other top boulderers from around the world, including a strong
posse of Americans and even the odd Venezuelan (come on Diego!!).
Snow + Rock International Leading
Masters
Sunday promises to
be a very exciting day. Not only have we the finals of the European
Youth Cup, but the crowd pleasing International Masters. Some of the
biggest names around are planning on turning up, to show that they're
just as good as the youngsters! Most are no strangers to the NIA,
having competed, and in some cases, won here before.
François Petit FRA
One of the famous Petit brothers, Francois is back on form this year
and is no stranger to winning. One World Championship, one Youth World
Championship and two World Cups under his belt up to now.
Francois Legrand
FRA
The man needs no introduction, but here goes anyway: World Cup Champion
no less than five times, World Champion three times and European
Champion once, there is virtually nothing that this man has not
won. Wow.
 Steve McClure
GBR
Strong Steve, the man with the world’s strongest fingers is
one of two Brits competing in this event. And when you think that
all of his hard routes were done prior to his giving up work who
knows what he might achieve.
Tomas Mrazcek CZE
One of the new boys on the block, Tomas is one to keep an eye on.
He won the most recent Leading World Cup in L’Aprica Italy
as well as the European Youth Cup the week before! He is one of
the reigning Youth World Champions as well as runner up at the senior
World Championships this September. And still only 19.
Gerome Pouvreau
FRA
The World Champion (leading) and still only 18. Gerome and Tomas
will be there fighting for first in the Snow + Rock International
Masters.
Alex Chabot FRA
Another young hot shot. Alex has so far won two World Cups this
year and is currently number one in the rankings.
 Cristian Brenna
ITA
Another 31 year old - Cristian is the unluckiest man in the world,
winner of only one World Cup event Cristian must have had more second
and third places than anyone else. But no one is friendlier.
Serik Kazbekov UKR
31 year old Serik still keeps the young un’s within reach.
Winner of a Bouldering World Cup back in 1999 Serik is one of the
very few that is capable of top five placings in both leading and
bouldering.
Chris Cubitt
GBR
The man known as Biggles who claims that he is more Elvis than Elvis.
Current British Champion and recently getting his best ever International
result (18th at the recent World Champs equal with a certain Mr
Legrand). Chris just goes on getting better. Viva Las Vegas.
There will be
many other climbers at the Snow + Rock International Masters but
we are still finalising the start lists...and with climbers being
climbers, the exact line up is always subject to change!
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